Pale Wheat Doppelbock Brew Day

Mildly based on an Urban Chestnut beer called Erlkönig, I wanted to brew a pale wheat doppelbock. Technically this recipe fits into both Doppelbock and Weizenbock style guidelines, except for the IBUs in it. I wanted a little more hoppy punch, so I decided on using Hallertau Blanc for aroma hops in this recipe.

I decided to go with the Pilsen water profile for this beer, and for 10 quarts of mash water, it was impossible to add so little minerals to hit the actual numbers. So I went balanced across the board and added approximately .15g or .2g of Gypsum, Epsom, Table, and Calcium Chloride. That along with 4g of lactic acid were the minerals that made up the mash profile. 

Actual numbers:

Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl SO4-2
6.2 1.2 4.8 13.3 11.6

Mash pH target: 5.26



Method Style Boil Size Batch Size Efficiency
Brew in a Bag Pale Wheat Doppelbock 3 gal 2.5 gal (fermenter) 75% Target


OG FG ABV (alternate) IBU SRM
17.6º P 2.7º P 8.5% ABV 39.42 6.09

Homebrew shop was out of Weyermann Pils, AND Weyermann Pale… So I went with Chateau Pils instead.


2.5 lbs Chateau Pils
2.5 lbs Rahr White Wheat
0.5 lb Weyermann Munich Type 1
0.5 lb Weyermann Munich Type 2
100g Pilsen DME (1 liter starter)

Hop Schedule

1 oz Hallertau Mittelfrüh (4%) Boil for 60 min 28.49 IBUs
1 oz Hallertau Blanc (7.7%) Boil for 5 min 10.93 IBUs


Fermentis Saflager W-34/70, built on a 1 liter starter, and pitched into wort at 57ºF. I decided to try out a different yeast, and a more diligent fermentation schedule with ramping temperature due to some acetaldehyde flavors in previous pale lagers. 

Brew Day

I made a 1 liter starter of 34/70 the day before, and let it spin for ~24 hours.IMG_1731

Fermentation happening:


On brew day, I sanitized and weighed out my salts. Quite a lot less salts than usual.


For the mash temp, I wanted it at 150ºF, and typically my mash has been going way over based on the Brewer’s Friend mash calculator. Knowing my own equipment, processes, and brew day tendencies, I doughed in at about 152ºF because I typically have no heat loss, or even an increase of heat after adding grains to the hot water.

A good stir, and carefully checking the mash every 5 or so minutes, I nailed my temp, and successfully maintained it for the full 90 minute mash.


After 90 minutes, I pulled the grain bag, and sparged 3 quarts through the grains, squeezing the bag each after each hydration.


The 12 quarts of 14ºP wort came to a boil, and boiled for 90 minutes. My stove was recently “fixed.” Because it doesn’t boil very hard, I have to tack on an extra 30 minutes in the boil.


The beer was hopped at the prescribed times, and then plunged into an ice bath.


The beer was cooled to just under 60ºF, and then filtered through a nylon bag to catch any trub, hops and other crud.


My 1 liter starter was pitched… and a final gravity reading came out exactly on target: 17.6ºP.IMG_1752

And then carried the beer into the fermentation chamber, where it will ferment at ~57ºF.




it’s been 44 days since brewing this beer, and probably 30 days since I racked this beer into the secondary. I finally got around to bottling it after fearing it was taking on oxygen in the secondary glass carboy. It looked much darker and deeper orange brown than it ever had when I first racked it out. However, upon siphoning it into bottles, it showed it’s true deep gold color I expected it to be.


8 liters were packaged, plus >100ml for a gravity sample…turned it at 1.012, 83% attenuation = 8.32% ABV…



on a side note, I am quite confused with how Brewer’s Friend calculates final gravity. Brewer’s Friend calculates this beer to have a starting gravity of 17.6ºP at 75% attenuation. Which I hit on brew day spot on. OG was indeed 17.6. Brewer’s Friend also tells me that 34/70 has an average attenuation of 83%. The odd part is that it tells me the beer should finish at 2.7ºP and be 8.5% ABV. I hit my starting gravity perfectly, the beer attenuated 83% down to 1.012 (3.1ºP), and it calculates me at 8.32%. So why does it calculate the beer at 8.5% with a higher attenuation than what’s listed with the yeast?

Celebrator Emulator Brew Day

Continuing to do lagers this year, I wanted to brew one of my favorite styles, so I found some clones of one of my favorite beers, Ayinger’s Celebrator, and made a recipe that fits my usual batch size. 


The tough part for me was figuring out what water to use, and I settled on a really soft profile that I modified from a Munich Dark Lager water profile. 

Here’s the resulting profile, in actual numbers.

Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl SO4-2
11.7 0 6.4 13.8 22.7

Mash pH target: 5.27

Now to the recipe:


Method Style Boil Size Batch Size Efficiency
Brew in a Bag Doppelbock 3 gal 2.5 gal (fermenter) 75% Target


OG FG ABV (alternate) IBU SRM
15.5º P 2.6º P 7.24% ABV 23 22.38


3 lbs Weyermann Pale Ale
1 lb Weyermann Munich Type 1
1 lb Weyermann Munich Type 2
.25 lb Crisp Chocolate Malt 
100g Pilsen DME (1 liter starter)

Hop Schedule

1 oz Hallertau Mittelfrüh (4%) Boil for 30 min 23.45 IBUs


Fermentis Saflager S-23, built on a 1 liter starter, and pitched into wort at 55ºF. 


Brew Day

The one thing I’m concerned about is the boil vigor in my last brew session. It didn’t boil off nearly enough water and I had about an extra quart in the fermenter. I’m wondering if I need to start doing 90 min boils to hit 9 quarts ending kettle, and pitch my 1 liter starter to get 10 quarts in the fermenter. 



I mashed 5.25 pounds of malt in 10 quarts of water at ~150ºF. Temperature was hit, and the beer mashed for about 75 minutes. 


After that time I pulled the grain bag and set it over my strainer and second runnings kettle, then stirred up the fresh wort and took a gravity reading of ~12.5ºP.

I sparged 3 quarts of DI water over the grain bed a little bit at a time, continually squeezing the bag to get the wort out, and then mixed all of the second runnings back into the boil kettle and topped it up to exactly 3 gallons. I took a gravity reading which came out to be ~13ºP.



The boil started well, and took off with more vigor than the previous batch I made.


But as the foam and stuff started to subside, it went back to a weak boil…. 

Looking at how much wort I had left, (and the fact that I forgot to add the hops at 30 min left), I tacked on another 30 minutes on the boil and tossed in the hops so I could hit my target volumes and IBUs.

…The beer was given an ice bath, and when it was cooled to about 70ºF I grabbed a gravity reading of 17ºP. I filter the wort through a nylon bag catching all the hops and trub debris, and then pitched my 1 liter starter. One final gravity reading came out to be ~16.2ºP, 79% efficiency on the day. 

I popped in my new thermowell, and carried the beer to the fermenter, where it will ferment at 55ºF. 


Nectar of the Kodz Brew Day

A buddy of mine had an idea not too long ago to brew a NEIPA except with a hefeweizen yeast strain. He explained to me that his idea was to get the flavors of banana and other tropical fruits playing together. I thought about possibilities for a recipe, and we decided to both brew our own recipes without any collaborating, and then compare later. 

Focusing on my recipe, I went with the choice of a single hop, and chose Australian Summer hops, for two reasons. First, I liked that these hops were only 5.8% alpha acids. I didn’t want to choose any high alpha acid hops because I thought the flavor could become too harsh. And second, I thought the description of these hops sounded like they would balance well in this beer.

AROMA PROFILE: STONE FRUIT, TROPICAL FRUIT, FRUITYSpecific aroma descriptors include apricot and melon.” – YCH Hops

I felt like the apricot, melon, and banana would make for a good flavor profile. 


Method Style Boil Size Batch Size Efficiency
Brew in a Bag Hoppy Hefeweizen 3 gal 2.5 gal (fermenter) 70% Target


OG FG ABV (alternate) IBU SRM
11.5º P 2.8º P 4.67% ABV 26 3.63

Water Profile

Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl SO4-2
20 5 10 50 20

Salt additions for that:

Gypsum 0.0g
Epsom Salt 0.7g
Sea Salt 0.4g
Calcium Chloride 1.0g
Lactic Acid (88%) 2.5g

Mash pH target: 5.25


1.5 lbs Weyermann Pilsner
1.5 lbs Rahr White Wheat
0.5 lbs Torrified Wheat
0.5 lbs Flaked Oats
100g Pilsen DME (1 liter starter)

Mash at 150ºF for 90 min

Hop Schedule

1 oz Summer (5.8% AA) Whirlpool 15 min @ 200ºF (10% utilization) 17.38 IBUs
1 oz Summer (5.8% AA) Whirlpool 7 min @ 190ºF (5% utilization) 8.69 IBUs
1 oz Summer (5.8% AA) Dry Hop for 4 days
1 oz Summer (5.8% AA) Dry Hop for 2 days


White Labs 300 (Hefeweizen Ale), built on a 1 liter starter, and pitched into wort at 70ºF. 

Brew Day



4 pounds of grain will be mashed in 10 quarts of water at 150ºF for 90 minutes…

I ended the mash about 15 min early and pulled the grain bag. Significant squeezing lead me to only have to sparge 3 quarts. I stirred up the second runnings and added them back to the boil kettle.

I pulled a sample and got a preboil gravity of ~10.5ºP


The boil was rather meek. I got it to boil in a normal amount of time, but when all the boil-over foam subsided, the wort didn’t seem to boil very vigorously. I guess I don’t mind how crazy the boil is, as long as I get enough evaporation. Nonetheless, I finished the boil in 60 minutes, and whirlpooled 1 ounce of Summer for 15, and another ounce for 7.5 minutes. 

While cooling down the beer, I noticed I did have slightly more wort than I usually do, just under 10 quarts…I decided to just go with it. I’ll just have some extra liquid and hope I don’t need too much headspace in my fermenter.


I poured the wort into the fermenter, and then poured my entire 1 liter starter (including the stir bar fuck me, right?) into the fermenter, and came out with definitely more than the typical 2.5 gallons I usually put into the fermenter. I likely blame the slow boil for this. I took a final gravity reading and got 13ºP, and placed the fermenter into my chamber where it will ferment at 70ºF.



Well… WLP300 doing it’s thing, working hard.


Didn’t have any blowoff equipment, had to run out and buy some tubing.


 After dry hopping the beer twice with Summer hops, I bottled it 8 days after brew day.

Here’s what the finished beer looks like in the carboy.


And since I had more beer in the carboy than usual, I got 8.5 liters total out of this batch.

After draining the carboy and beginning to clean it, I remembered. My stir bar! Little guy made it all the way through fermentation.


And the final gravity reading on this beer comes in at 1.012.


The final stats on this beer:

OG FG ABV (alternate)
Targets 11.5º P 1.011 SG 4.67% ABV
Actuals 13.3º P 1.012 SG 5.45% ABV



I think I fucked up. Looking through my fridge, I found I was short 1oz of Galaxy hops and had an extra bag of Summer hops…… My guess is I wasn’t paying attention and gave this beer a dry hop of Summer and Galaxy instead of Summer and Summer. Whatever? Maybe?

Hallertau SMaSH (Mittelfrüh) Brew Day

Hallertau SMASH-01

I’ve got a bunch of lager recipes lined up for this year, and having very little experience with lagers, I thought brewing a SMaSH lager would be a good place to start.

This recipe is directly inspired by Urban Chestnut’s Hop Switch Pils.

I’ve been very impressed with those beers every time I’ve had them. Hop Switch is a German Pilsner, but single hopped with a noble hop.

I was debating in my mind on whether to use a Pilsen style water (ie something very soft), or a Pale Ale style water. So I emailed the Brewmaster at Urban Chestnut, Florian Kuplent, asking about what they’re doing with their water profile. Here’s his response:

“We just add a little bit of lactic acid and calcium chloride to the mash and wort but don’t do any other water treatments. Water here in St. Louis is pretty good for brewing. I would target a mash pH of 5.4 and a wort pH of 5.2”

Big thanks to Florian. I looked up what the water is in St. Louis and found this 2016 report:


Mg+2 Na+ Cl



16 37 24



I’m going to build up from DI water as always, and make some slight modifications to the above profile. The Magnesium and Sodium levels are a little high for my taste, so I’ll tone those down a little bit. With an addition of Calcium Chloride to the profile above, I think I’m aiming for around 50 in both Calcium and Chloride, which is OK, and gets me Cl:SO4 ratio of 50:130. Here’s the resulting target profile:


Mg+2 Na+ Cl



5 20 50


Salt additions for that:

Gypsum 2.6g
Epsom Salt 0.7g
Sea Salt 0.7g
Calcium Chloride 0.5g
Lactic Acid (88%) 2.0g

Mash pH target: 5.33

Actual numbers:


Mg+2 Na+ Cl



5.2 20.8 50.3


Now to the recipe:


Method Style Boil Size Batch Size Efficiency
BIAB Hoppy German Pils 3 gal 2.5 gal 70%


14º P 2.3º P 6.45% 32.36 3.44


5 lbs Weyermann Pilsner
100g Pilsen DME (1 liter starter)

Hop Schedule

I decided to take away ALL boil hop additions. My initial thought was to boil 4oz of hops, 1oz each at 60, 15, 5, and 0 min, but now I’ve decided to throw in all 4oz of hops in the whirlpool instead.

4 oz Mittelfrüh (2.7% AA) Whirlpool 15 min @ 200ºF 32.36 IBUs
1 oz Mittelfrüh (2.7% AA) Dry Hop for 4 days
1 oz Mittelfrüh (2.7% AA) Dry Hop for 2 days



Fermentis Saflager S-23, built on a 1 liter starter, and pitched into wort at 55ºF.


I’m choosing this yeast over W-34/70, WLP800, and WLP830 for two reasons. One, I like the way it attenuates, and two, I’ve pitched this yeast once in the past into an IPA recipe and really enjoyed how clean of a beer it produced.

Brew Day

Brewing my first beer in my new house today, and got my brew shelf all set up.



As usual, I am going to mash at 150ºF for 90 min… Hit my temperature spot on.


Temperature during the mashing process jumped up to 154 with the lid on, which I don’t foresee as being an issue.


I only had to sparge 3 quarts through the grains with an ample amount of bag squeezing.


My efficiencies are higher than I anticipated, probably because I didn’t need to add the fourth quart of sparge water while still hitting my volumes. The preboil gravity was overshot and hit ~12.4ºP.


Zero hop additions are going into the boil, I’m saving all hop additions for the whirlpool. Four 1oz bags ended up being 3.99oz.


These were whirlpooled on the hot side for 15 min after the boil.

Gravity readings were taken:

Ending Kettle (hot): 17º P of 9 qt wort

Ending Kettle (cooled): 16.4º P of 9 qt wort

When the beer was fully cooled down, it was filtered through a nylon bag going into the fermenter.


I pitched my 1 liter starter into the fermenter, and a final gravity reading was taken.

Brew Day Complete: 15.7ºP  of ~10 qt wort


I carried the fermenter to my chest freezer, where it will ferment at 55ºF.





I ramped fermentation temperature as I noticed the carboy slowing down, and within a day of increased temperatures, it looks like fermentation has finished. I’m going to let it rest at the higher temperature for a couple days to get a full 7 days of fermentation, and then begin a short lagering period.


Update: 4.22.18:

I got around to bottling this beer after a short lagering period.


Very leafy dry hops floating in the bottom.


8 liters total were packaged into four 1 liter bottles, and eight 500ml bottles.


And the beer finished out close to 1.012.


The beer had a slight haze on it, and was a very pale yellow color.


And the final stat line on this beer….

15.7º P 3.1º P 7.11% 32.36 3.44

Bloom IPA Clone Attempt

Parish Bloom IPA. I loved this beer. I remember it as very juicy, soft, and floral. But I haven’t had or seen this beer since last March, almost a year. Looking at Parish’s website, they say it’s “A juicy, soft, hazy IPA absolutely loaded with Simcoe and Nugget hops.” So I’m going to try just those two hops paired together.

(scroll all the way down for brew day also)




Style Boil Size Batch Size Efficiency
BIAB NEIPA 3 gal 2.25 gal    (kettle)

70% Target


Target OG

Target FG

Target ABV (alt)

Target IBU (tinseth)

15.3º P

4.9º P




3.0 lbs Rahr Pale 2-row
1.0 lb Golden Naked Oats
1.0 lb Flaked Wheat
6 oz Lactose (Preboil addition)

Hop Schedule

1 oz Simcoe (13.6%AA) Boil 15 min 58.86 IBUs
1 oz Nugget (15.1% AA) Boil 5 min 26.26 IBUs
1 oz Simcoe (13.6%AA) WP @ 211ºF for 15 min 45.27 IBUs (10% Util.)
1 oz Nugget (15.1% AA) WP @ 211ºF for 15 min 50.27 IBUs (10% Util.)
1 oz Nugget (15.1%AA) Dry Hop for 3 days
1 oz Simcoe (13.6% AA) Dry Hop for 2 days


Harvested WLP095 (Burlington). Expected 75% attenuation.

I decanted 1 mason jar, swirled to loosen, and pitched the yeast early Saturday evening into a 1 liter starter in anticipation of pitching on Sunday evening.


I’m going to try the 1:1 Chloride:Sulfate ratio at 150 ppm, rather than my previous IPAs which have been at 200:75.

Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl SO4-2
Target 125 5 10 150 150
Actual 130.6 5.2 11.9 153.1 151.2

For 10 quarts of mash water, that’s:

3.1g Gypsum

0.7g Epspom

0.4g Sea Salt

3.7g Calcium Chloride

With no lactic acid additions, the Calcium Chloride and Gypsum additions I’m using are enough to get the mash pH calculated down to 5.33.

Bloom Clone Brew Day


I weighed out my salts mentioned in the recipe above, tossed them into the brew kettle, and poured in 10 quarts of DI water…


My target mash temperature will be 150ºF. Grains are currently at 77ºF, that equals a dough in temperature of 157ºF


Once I got my strike water up to temperature, I killed the heat, slid the kettle off the burner, dumped in all the grains, stirred it all up for a bit, and set the mash timer for 90 minutes.


These IPAs with a significant percentage of oats and flaked adjuncts lend to a really slimy and sticky grain bag. However, this grain bag with flaked wheat instead of flaked oats is not nearly as slimy as my usual grain bill.

Sparge took 40 minutes today… stirred up all my second runnings and added them back to the boil kettle and collected slightly more than 3 gallons of 12ºP wort.



Sparge runnings stirred up and added along with 6oz of lactose to the boil kettle to be boiled for 60 minutes.

@15 min remaining I poured in 1oz of Simcoe hops.

@5 min remaining I poured in 1oz of Nugget hops.

Ending kettle gravity: 16.8ºP



After the 60 min boil, 1oz of Simcoe and 1oz of Nugget was added to the kettle and whirlpooled by hand for 15 min above 200ºF.


The beer was cooled and filtered going into the fermenter.

My 1 liter starter was pitched into the fermenter equaling about 2.5 gallons of wort. Refractometer reads: 15.6ºP


I sloshed it around while walking over to the chamber, and set it in the 68ºF environment where it’ll ferment for 7 days.



8 liter bottles were filled tonight (2.24.18).


The beer finished at 1.022, as expected with the lactose addition.


I poured the tube into a sample glass and took a good whiff. The aroma gives off really nice layers of tropical fruit. The flavor started out just like I thought, was really really good sweet layers of fruit, but quickly turned hoppy bitter astringent. Very astringent. I have two suspicions on why this turned out more bitter. The first is the Nugget hops, which are listed as bittering hops, but I’ve used hops in this style of beer with higher Alpha Acids, so I’m not totally convinced that’s the issue. My second suspicion is the water profile. This was the first time that I went with the 150:150 Chloride:Sulfate ratio. It certainly could be the elevated sulfate levels contributing to the bitterness, especially considering my aggressive hop schedule with equal boil and equal whirlpool additions.




I weighed out my salts, threw them in the pot, and added 10 quarts of De-ionized water. I always build up from DI water, it’s very easy and cheap, 45 cents a gallon at my local Whole Foods. ($5 for 10 gallons of water).


I’m going to mash these grains at 150ºF. The grains were at 82ºF in the cabinet, so that equals a strike Water of 157ºF.


Once it was heated to the right temperature, I killed the heat, slid the kettle off the burner, and dumped in all the grains. Stirred for a couple minutes, put the lid on it, and started my mash timer for 90 minutes.



For sparging with BIAB, bag squeezing has yielded good efficiencies and results for me. When the mash is finished, I remove the grain bag and place it on top of a mesh strainer that rests on my smaller second runnings kettle. From here I squeeze the bag down significantly until I get all the liquid out. Then I take my 3 quart copper tea kettle with warm DI water and SLOWLY pour warm water over the grains, rinsing and rehydrating all the grains. I let the bag sit for about a minute, and then squeeze it all down again. This process is repeated many times, as I’m only adding about half a quart back to the grain bag each time I sparge it, which is about 8 times rehydrated and squeezed with my set up. In total I make sure to sparge 4 quarts of DI water. I don’t worry about adding any minerals to my sparge water. People have told me otherwise, I’ve noticed no ill effects.



I added my sparge runnings back to the boil kettle, getting slightly more than 3 gallons, added 4oz of Pilsen DME, and 8oz of Lactose. Pre-boil gravity ~12.6ºP.

IMG_0990 preboil

Boil time: 60 min


@15 I dumped in 1oz of Experimental Stone Fruit hops. This smells like fucking fruit loops. Awesome. Definitely getting some good fruit aromas off this, which I want. Cool.


@5 I dumped in 1oz of Mosaic hops.


I killed the heat and moved the kettle to a hot pad on the counter, started stirring hard, and dumped in my whirlpool additions (1oz EXP Stone Fruit, 1oz Mosaic, .3oz of Butterfly Pea Blossoms).


For whirlpooling, being on a tiny setup, I stir by hand for 15 minutes. I also do my whirlpool additions at a higher temperature (north of 200ºF) rather than the recommended 170ºF. I prefer some isomerization to occur at the hotter temps.

Ending kettle gravity: 17.5ºP

IMG_1001 ending kettle

.3oz of picked blue heads was yielding a rather green looking wort… So I tossed in an extra .3oz of unpicked blossoms at about 7 min left in the whirlpool.


As it’s cooling down in the ice bath, the top layer of wort is really dark blue. But any stirring and swirling brings up some yellow lupulin and wort making it a forest green color with a lot of shades of blue in it. Interesting. Will play this by eye in the coming week.

A quick filtration process going into the fermenter was done. I filter my beers ONLY when going into the fermenter. I stick a funnel on the carboy, and pour the beer slowly through a nylon mash bag into the funnel. The wort pools up quickly so I squeeze it all down, and pour some more, repeat, etc. I find this aerates the wort well, and lends to a much cleaner wort and a cleaner bottling day.


Brew day complete, 2.5 gallons of wort at 16.6ºP

… if anyone can explain why my ending kettle gravities are always higher than my brew day complete gravities, that’d be great. I assume it’s because of temperature, but a few drops cooled on a refractometer should correct that?

IMG_1006 brewday complete


I am going to let this beer ferment at 68ºF 6 days, as I do all my IPAs, crash at around 55ºF on the 7th day, the and then bottle on the 8th day.

Thursday Day 1 – 4:00PM: 10 min after putting it in the chamber, really dark gray blue with trub separation occurring.


Friday Day 2 – 9:41AM:  Grayish green color, notable fermentation happening.


Saturday Day 3 – 9:00AM: Still grayish green color. Airlock activity has slowed down. Really does look awful. Maybe need to add more flowers to get some blue color?


Saturday Day 3 – On Saturday night was my first experience scraping vanilla. I found them quite hard to slice open and peel back. I got 2 pods open and scraped out all the gritty vanilla stuff, and threw everything into the fermenter.

Sunday Day 4 – Still looks gross, but upon putting a light really close to the fermenter, there’s a noticeable deep magenta hue. Which might mean there’s plenty of color in this beer, just need to let some of the junk crash out.



I wanted this to finish blue, as the title states, but the beer finished a rather purple color when looking at in the fermenter, and while racking into my kettle and into bottle, it looked really dingy purple… Yikes.


I put the beer into 8 liter bottles, what I was aiming for, and had just enough for a hydrometer reading. Starting from 16.6ºP, the beer finished at 1.023 SG.


I took note of the sample, and poured it into a taster glass, where I noticed a few different colors in different lighting sources.

Naked camera eye: Dark indigo purple color.


Camera with flash on: gray. ehhhh.


HOWEVER, shining a light through the glass, it showed something completely different.


Cool. The sample tasted pretty good. A drinking review to come in 14 days.


I saw a recipe on Reddit that used Pea Blossoms to make a “Purple Haze” IPA, which sounded fun, so I bought some pea blossoms. Here’s a link to that Reddit user’s recipe:


Researching Pea Blossoms, they turn different colors at different acidities. Their main color is blue, and the beer should stay blue being around regular ale acidity as it drops during fermentation. As the acidity drops even further the color will turn purple, and eventually bright pink the more acidic it gets. I’m hoping mine stays a vibrant blue color.


Later that week I saw Yakima was selling experimental Stone Fruit Hops, sounded good, so I bought some along with some Mosaic to pair it with. I went into Brewer’s Friend and created the following recipe.


Method Style Boil Size Batch Size Efficiency
BIAB NEIPA 3 gal 2.25 gal (kettle) 70% Target


Target OG

Target FG

Target ABV (alt)

Target IBU (tinseth)

16.8º P (1.0689 SG)

5.8º P (1.0229 SG)


187.28 lol


3.0 lbs Rahr Pale 2-row
1.0 lb Golden Naked Oats
1.0 lb Flaked Oats
8 oz Lactose (Preboil addition)
4 oz DME Pilsen (Preboil addition)

Hop Schedule

1 oz EXP Stone Fruit (17%AA) Boil 15 min 74.66 IBUs
1 oz Mosaic (11% AA) Boil 5 min 19.41 IBUs
1 oz EXP Stone Fruit (17%AA) WP @ 211ºF for 15 min 56.59 IBUs

(10% Util.)

1 oz Mosaic (11% AA) WP @ 211ºF for 15 min 36.62 IBUs (10% Util.)
1 oz EXP Stone Fruit (17%AA) Dry Hop for 4 days
1 oz Mosaic (11% AA) Dry Hop for 3 days
1 oz EXP Stone Fruit (17%AA) Dry Hop for 2 days


WLP095 (Burlington), which I’ve been told is the Conan strain. I ferment this strain at 68ºF and get to attenuate at about 75%.

I’ve been harvesting this strain from some other IPAs of mine. I keep them in mason jars, and build them up every once in a while so they don’t die of starvation. If I leave them in the jars for too long, the liquid in there goes from a bright yellow to a dull brown.


I made a 1 liter starter from a fresh jar Wednesday morning and put it on the stir plate. It finished fermenting by Thursday morning with noticeable signs of fermentation gunk stuck on the flask. Pitching my 1 liter starter will get my batch size up to 2.5 gallons.



Doing some research on NEIPA water profiles, I’ve gotten a lot of information. The owner of the local home-brew shop swears by adding small amounts of magnesium and sodium to soften the water just a bit. I’ve taken his advice. The debate comes in on Chloride:Sulfate ratios, and he thinks 1:1 at about 150ppm. I’ve read a lot of brewers like to go at 2:1 or even 3:1 Chloride:Sulfate… Scott Janish has some great write-ups on what affects water and mouthfeel, and some of those write-ups plus his comments on reddit have pointed me to the following water profile.

Ca+2 Mg+2 Na+ Cl SO4-2
Target 125 5 10 200 75
Actual 127.8 5.2 11.9 204 75.4

(I always target 0 HCO for my IPA water)

For 10 quarts of DI mash water, that’s:

1.3g Gypsum

0.7g Epspom

0.4g Sea Salt (no iodine)

5.1g Calcium Chloride

With no acid additions, the Calcium Chloride and Gypsum additions I’m using are enough to get the mash pH calculated down to 5.34.

Other Ingredients

Freshly cut vanilla pods. I’m going to use either 1 or 2 sliced pods in the secondary.

Pea Blossoms. I’m going to add just .3oz in the whirlpool to color the wort. And if it isn’t blue enough for me, then I’ll probably add more in the secondary.


…brewing has taken place, will post another entry on that brew day.